Diy Repair Aquariums

Diy Repair Aquariums

Repair of aquariums is not very difficult, especially if it is a small container of sheet glass up to 100 liters. without curved surfaces.
If we are talking about a panoramic aquarium, where the windshield has a curvature, then in case of damage to this glass repair becomes more difficult.

When repairing aquariums with a second bottom, there are also difficulties in racing the connection of the second bottom from the main one, since the silicone pad (silicone that is poured into the bottom center between one and second bottom) is very difficult to remove, but with a certain skill this task becomes doable. Moreover, the trends and new technologies of sizing the aquarium, when the glass does not become on the bottom as at the base, but instead are glued around the bottom, makes it possible to avoid the insertion of the second bottom and aquariums up to 400 l are glued with one bottom.

When damage to a curved windshield is much harder to find a replacement for this glass. In all other respects, the repair technology is no different from the repair of a regular rectangular aquarium.

Damage to the aquarium for which repairs are needed:

1. Aquarium Flow

Obviously, if you noticed that the aquarium began to leak or there is sputum on the seams. In this case, it is necessary to conduct a thorough inspection of the aquarium and find the cause of the appearance of moisture.
This is done very simply. A piece of soft toilet paper is taken, preferably darkish, so that moisture is immediately visible on it, and gets wet (not done, namely, gets wet with a paper swab), along the seams of the aquarium, to identify a seam that has started to leak moisture.
Do not rush to rejoice if you saw a point from the bark of the oozing water, does not mean that it is in the aquarium to be on against the place where you found it, from the outside moans of the aquarium.
In the manufacture of an aquarium, they often use the technology of pouring silicone over the corners of an aquarium (silicone "kerchiefs"), so water can penetrate under the silicone in one place to flow between the layers of silicone in the seam and flow completely elsewhere.
Therefore, the repair of the “fouling point” is very ineffective.

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2. Chips

During the operation of the aquarium, chipping on the surface of the glass is very often due to various reasons. Whether it is a blow or skewed aquarium during installation, transportation, etc. In any case, such glass is to be replaced, the chip is not so deep as a crack, but it still breaks the solidity of the structure is a danger to the further operation of the aquarium.
When a chip appears on the surface of the glass, it is necessary to eliminate not only the consequence, but also to identify the reason why it occurred. The glass was damaged or in the event of a banal blow. Either the internal stress of the glasses became so high that the glue “pulled” the glass, or one glass deformed the other.
Internal chips are much more dangerous than external ones.

3. Cracks

It so happens that during the operation of the aquarium there are cracks, again you need to strictly differentiate those cracks that appeared due to careless use of the product or due to improper production of the aquarium.
In any case, it is necessary to replace the glass (s) in the detection of cracks.
Sometimes the crack is not through and does not leak, aquarists make the wrong decision about the further operation of the aquarium.
But this is the most erroneous decision. The aquarium can not be further exploited.
The fact is that despite all its solidity, an aquarium, not a rigid structure. Thanks to glue joints, the glass of the aquarium can “walk” within certain limits, if the aquarium were completely cast, the operation of even 30 liters of capacity would be very problematic, due to the distribution of loads on the glass.
Therefore, in the event of cracking and identifying the cause, it is necessary to immediately begin repairing such an aquarium.

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4. Defects associated with stiffeners

Modern methods of sizing aquariums sometimes include increasing the strength of the structure due to the gluing of stiffeners in the upper part of the aquarium. I must say that some aquarium "masters" very often use stiffening ribs to reduce the thickness of the main glass, thereby reducing the cost of the aquarium, this is not true.
The thickness of the glass in the aquarium should correspond to its volume and size. The necessary proportions and values ​​can be found in special tables.
With such violations, such defects often occur:
– Full or partial detachment of the stiffener.
– Chip in the joints of the ribs or the main glass.
– Broken stiffener due to the strong tension of the main glasses.

5. Just want to highlight such moments as not high-quality glass, and not high-quality glue.

For the manufacture of aquariums is glass brand M0 which should not contain any bubbles, divorces and other external flaws. Very often, manufacturers save and let the worst quality glass on the front and bottom glass. Which are not so much striking, thereby reducing the cost of construction, while making it less durable.
With regards to silicones. For the production of aquariums use aquarium silicone of hanging strength and having enhanced adhesive properties. Silicone has its own shelf life, as well as temperature and time mode of operation.

In case of violation of the above written parameters, the strength of the seams is significantly reduced.
Very often, in order to save, manufacturers save on silicone using low-quality silicone, or using glass mastics at all, which is fundamentally unacceptable.

Consider an ordinary aquarium repair algorithm.

Repair of the aquarium begins with the identification of the reasons for which a defect occurred.
Incorrect installation or start-up, manufacturer’s fault, careless handling, etc.
In the beginning, it is the cause that is eliminated.
Then you should drain all the water from the aquarium and dry the jar.
Depending on the damage, there will be a veil and repair actions.
When water is seeping through the seam, it is necessary to use a blade to cut the glass that borders the seam, then clean it from the glue residue and clean the seat. Reapply the glue and glue the glass into place. Fixing it for a certain period of time.

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Depending on the quality of the silicone on which the aquarium was glued, you can judge the feasibility of a complete disassembly and plywood of the aquarium, and not just a single seam,
If the silicone is not frozen, but has taken a jelly-like mass, has not a uniform structure, but contains lumps, or other blotches, or “dubeet”, then you should completely re-glue the aquarium.
In this case, all the seams of the aquarium are cut with a blade, the glass of the aquarium is cleaned from the old glue, degreased and the aquarium is glued with a new one.

When cracks and chips (further simple, chips) on the glass as well in the beginning should be determined because of what happened the chip, after identifying the cause, you can begin to repair.
If a chip has occurred during inaccuracy during operation, the glass is cut out and a new one is glued in instead.

If the cleavage occurred due to improper distribution of loads, then in this case it looks at the geometric proportionality of the aquarium, the equality of the angles is 90 *, the presence of distortions, whether the glass has the same size, etc. If you find which of the above described defects at the beginning eliminate the cause, after that, they change the damaged glass or re-glue the aquarium for new.
For defects associated with stiffeners, it is best to cut and re-glue them. To this end, the stiffeners are cut off and new ones are cut in their place to the same dimensions, and if necessary from glass, thicker and wider. And glued on a skimmed base.
At the same time, auxiliary tools, scotch tape materials, clamps, etc. are used.