Last theme In my experience of implementing external filtration of aquarium water remained unfinished. As I remember, I promised to acquaint the reader with a concrete embodiment of advanced technical thought.
The external filter that is being presented to the public today has been blinded not so long ago, as they say, from what it was. Therefore, it is with the example of this device that I wanted to visually show how low cost can be the independent production aquarium equipment.
As the body of the future water purifying device was selected old aquarium-screen in which when I was young I wore their pets on the "birdie".
There was a time! Any pioneer could expose a gup or other animal to their people for work and patience.
Today, the Birdie, which used to occupy a whole floor of the central market building in our town, and in the summer, in the open air, by area and number of visitors (recall queues “fighting” for the bloodworm) could compete with fruit and vegetable traders a few years since ceased to exist.
But let’s not talk about sad things. The screen is no longer needed and you can find another use for it.
We have a design from plexiglas volume of about 10 liters with perforated internal partition dividing the tank into two equal parts.
If anyone remembers a schematic ratio of the volume of sections of the planned filter, this is a disadvantage. Without a partition it would be possible to divide the capacity into compartments more correctly. But this performance is not fatal.
Cut openings in both sections for free access to them. The filter housing will be located horizontally (we will lay the screen on its side), respectively, the holes for servicing the device will be on top.
One of the previous entrances to the screen, on the contrary, is almost permanently sealed, leaving only a slit-overflow in the upper part. In the corner of the same section, glue the comb in the corner. The first two filter sections are actually ready. Into the small (to the corner) there will be the flow of water from the pump, in the second part (expanded clay will be poured in here) it (water) will be cleaned on a large suspension.
We increase the number of holes in the glued partition, and also make several holes-overflows of large diameter in its upper part.
This will ensure the passage of water through the entire filter to the drain hole, even if the filter material stops flowing through it and the stream goes up. Thus we exclude overflow of water over the upper edge of the filter housing. But there is still in our second section an overflow slot (mentioned earlier), which is a level above these overflow holes, which provides us with additional security.
From the side of the third section we glue the ribs to the middle partition, which will not allow the filtering material to block the holes.
Now if you haven’t forgotten scheme, we need to ensure an increase in the surface area of the final filter element through which the filtered water will flow. That is, the surface area through which the filtered water will emerge from the sponge should be greater than the area of the central partition of our screen.
Perhaps there are more successful solutions, it also occurred to me to paste inside the third section additional partitions along the perimeter of the existing walls and make two of them not deaf. Water in this case will be able to exit the filter element in two directions, freely flowing along the formed free channel along the walls to the drain.
On the drain we glue the "ladder", which will touch the surface of the water in the aquarium so that the water does not murmur.
A sponge was chosen as the filter element in the third section.
From what was available picked up the pump with the declared capacity of 800 liters per hour. For a can of 250 liters this (with such a filtering system) may be a bit too much. But I think a 10-liter filter such (actually even smaller) volume of incoming water completely “digests”, and therefore we close our eyes and believe that there is not much filtering. Trials will show.
On the perimeter of the case we glue the ribs. They filter will rely on two side and one end wall aquarium. The error in the fraction of a degree provides a slight inclination of the structure from the end wall of the aquarium towards its center. That is, where it is sent and drained from the filter. Now for water under any most unfortunate set of circumstances (even if all the drain and overflow holes, the cumulative area of which is more than one square decimeter, will be closed at once), there will be only one way back to the aquarium.
Surprisingly, for a long time I could not find a hose that would be worn at the pump outlet, and therefore began to try everything. And unexpectedly it turned out that the connecting sleeve for PVC corrugations for laying electrical wiring is simply and reliably mounted on the outlet tube (coupling for connecting rigid and flexible pipes). And therefore I no longer picked up the hose, but used this most flexible corrugation. Price her a penny. She will not have to experience much pressure.
The same coupler secured the hose to the filter housing. With plexiglass and PVC it is wonderful glued.
We assemble the unit (the diagram shows the sequential movement of water through the sections of the filter and its discharge into the aquarium):
We start (without having forgotten to add expanded clay to the second section):
According to the results of monthly tests in general tsikhlidnik with not the smallest "America" there were no constructive changes to be made. The device worked properly (qualitatively and silently), and was approved by the expert committee for further operation.
Total of all expenses:
– an old aquarium-screen (any plastic box will do) – from zero rubles;
– an inexpensive pump (it is quite possible to use the head from an old internal filter) – it costs like a bottle of good vodka;
– some plexiglass scraps, plastic, as well as a couple of spits of organic glue (of the same Cosmofen) – from zero rubles;
– sponge (or synthetic winterizer) – from zero rubles;
– a meter of corrugations (d = 20) and two couplings for it – at the price of a beer bottle per set, and this is the only thing that in this particular case I had to buy specially (the rest was already lying on the cupboards).